Vermiculture Notes From Dawn Pomraning
"Lessons Learned From the Worm Bin"
(Callaway Gardens has adopted this fact sheet and will officially print it as a form for their guests)
Worm Compost or Vermicomposting
Vermicomposting is the scientific term for the homely art of harnessing the power of earthworms to increase the speed, ease, and efficiency of composting. In contrast to traditional composting methods, vermicomposting requires very little effort: after the compostable materials have been introduced into the bin, the worms do all the work. In fact, vermicomposting is so efficient and odorless that it makes a fine indoor hobby. When you recycle your food scraps by vermicomposting, you can reduce up to one third of solids that enter the waste deposit sites.
Benefits of Worm Castings
Worm castings retain moisture and release nutrients over time, natural pest and fungus control, enriches soil with nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, calcium, potash, magnesium and thousands of active soil microbes and improves soil texture for better root growth and aeration. You can top dress your worm castings on the soil surface of the potted plant. Sprinkle worm castings about one-fourth inch deep on the soil surface. Repeat this process every 45-60 days for best results. The estimated content is 2-1-1 (Nitrogen, Phosphate, and Potassium) with trace micronutrients.
Synthetic Fertilizers vs. Worm Castings
Both fertilizers will provide your plants with nutrients, but the big difference is that all synthetic fertilizers contain salt. Synthetic fertilizers will often cause a build-up of inorganic salts over time. These insoluble salts will affect soil life, soil condition, and plant health. Microbial and beneficial soil insect populations will drop. All of this will affect the growth and performance of plants over time, while there is relatively little build-up of salts in the soil when using organic fertilizers. When you use worm castings as fertilizer, your plants will be healthier and best of all, it’s free!
“Do-it-yourself Worm Bins on a Dime”
You can purchase a worm bin from a reliable garden supplier, but why not save money and make your own worm bin. You can purchase a plastic bin from your local retail store or find one around your home. Ensure that it is large enough to support your vermicomposting. It is best to use a plastic bin that is dark, with a dark cover. Worms do not like the light and will appreciate a dark home. They need air so be sure to place at least five or more holes in the bin for good aeration. You can do this with an ice pick or a drill. Be sure to place a screen over the holes to keep your worms in the bin. Next add shredded newspaper for bedding, food scraps, a handful or two of outdoor soil, and a bunch of Redworms. Make sure the bedding is moist, but not too wet. You may spray a little water on the bedding.
How Many Worms Do I Need?
The correct ratio of worms to food waste should be: for one pound per day of food waste, use two pounds of worms (roughly 2000). If you are unable to get this many worms to start with, reduce the amount of food waste accordingly, while the population steadily increases, suggests Mary Appelhof, who wrote “Worms eat my Garbage.”
How Many Scraps are Enough for My Worms?
One pound of worms can eat half a pound of scraps in 24 hours. Be cautious not to over feed your worms. If you over feed the worms the scraps may not breakdown naturally and may liquefy, causing your worms to drown. Be sure to slightly bury your food scraps. The good soil microbes and the worms work together to naturally break down the scraps. Also, the worms prefer to stay under the bedding and will appreciate staying in the dark. Be careful not to disturb the worms too much as they may have deposited their egg cocoons in the soil. The cocoons are lemon-shaped and about one-eight of an inch long.
Which Foods Do I Feed Them?
Vegetable scraps, fruit, egg shells, coffee grinds, shredded leaves, black and white newspaper. Be careful not to put too much acidic fruit in their bin. The soil can become too acidic for your worms. Also, avoid placing meats, oils, dairy products, glossy paper or any chemicals in their bin. These foods will produce odors that may attract unwanted pests. Papers that contain chemicals may cause your worms to die. Just be conscientious when you feed your worms and give them a healthy worm diet.
What about Fruit Flies?
Probably the most annoying problem you will encounter with worm composting is fruit flies, not odor. Always bury your food waste. Fruit flies lay their eggs on food scraps so that the larvae will have a food source to consume. When you deposit food waste in your worm bin, take the time to cover it with a layer, one to two inches of bedding. Flies will not burrow into the bedding and will have to go elsewhere to find a food source. Biological controls may also work such as adding beneficial nematodes to their worm bin. They may be purchased from garden supply catalogs. These nematodes drill into and consume fly larvae and pupae in your worm bin.
Where Should I Locate My Worm Bin?
Worm bins can be used indoors all year round and outdoors during the milder months. The advantage of mobile bins is that they can be moved when weather conditions change. Indoors, basements are excellent locations (warm, dark and dry), but any spare space can be utilized, as long as temperatures are between 40-80 degrees F. We know dedicated worm composters who have convenient kitchen counter worm bins. Outdoors, bins can be kept in sheds and garages, on patios and balconies, or in the yard. They should be kept out of hot sun and heavy rain. If temperatures drop below 40 degrees F., bins should either be moved indoors or be well insulated outdoors.
Learn More About Vermicomposting
1. “Worms Eat My Garbage”, by Mary Appelhof
2. Talk to your local agricultural extension officer
3. Check out: www.wormwoman.com.
4. Another source: www.dep.state.pa.us/dep/deputate/airwaste/wm/recycle/Worm/worm1.htm
5. An interactive children’s vermicomposting game at www.ciwmb.ca.gov/vermi/game/menu.html
